“Amiable welcome at a step back in time”

Driving back from central Italy we wanted an overnight stop before crossing the Simplon Pass. The Edelweiss was apparently just off the main road at Domodossola and given the area we assumed it was in a winter sports resort. In fact Bognanco [as its precise name should have told us] is a somewhat... more

Driving back from central Italy we wanted an overnight stop before crossing the Simplon Pass. The Edelweiss was apparently just off the main road at Domodossola and given the area we assumed it was in a winter sports resort. In fact Bognanco [as its precise name should have told us] is a somewhat old fashioned small spa town that straggles down the steep and winding mountain road. Whilst that didn't particularly influence the physical nature of the Edelweiss, except that is for the lift and the spa treatments, it certainly had consequences for the clientele who were clearly there for the waters. It was still a little bit early for the peak season, the hotel occupancy was light and the surrounding village was quiet. However we had no complaints about the Hotel which was tidy and organised with splendid views down the valley from the two reasonably sized if slightly basic rooms we occupied. There was certainly no noise apart from the chimes from the very adjacent small church at eight in both the evening and morning. After a heavy night the latter might have been a bit intrusive but I doubt whether there are many heavy nights at the Edelweiss and in any event with glorious weather and a splendid view it was no hardship to hear the bells. We ate in the evening from a very short menu and the food was straightforward but with plenty of flavour. My bucatini amatriciana was a good a pasta dish as I ate on this holiday and the meat main courses were neatly done too. Breakfast was conventionally continental and a bit uninspiring but as it came with the room we were happy enough. All of this was provided by what I took to be a husband and wife team who could not have been more pleasant and keen to please so the stay left us feeling positive. Would I recommend it? That would depend on why you wanted to be in Bognanco. If taking the waters is your thing then this would be excellent and I guess it might not be a bad base for walking. However as a stopover it is probably a little too far of the main road although its location is compensation. Be prepared for a curiously dated experience though. Though the hotel itself is quite modern the clientele were not and from the old posters on display the spa itself probably dates back to the end of the nineteenth century when its curative possibilities were perhaps more heavily valued. Still we felt it was decent value for money and enjoyed both the honest hospitality and the slight quirkiness.

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